Well, I couldn’t sit still too long.
I knew I had some 8/4 poplar sitting at a friend’s house, drying in the field. I couldn’t remember how much I had cut; I don’t usually earmark too much of a log for 8/4. I’m starting to change that way of thinking, but last year, when I had this cut, I just blurted out some numbers to the sawyer. It turns out I had just enough cut to build this most essential of work-holding tools.
It started, interestingly enough, in OCM. It was beautiful this time of year, and I got to spend some time reading on the beach. I had Peter Galbert’s new book, and I eventually got to the part where he talks about building a shavehorse.
As the three or four of you who read the ramblings regularly posted here may know, I just finished my first chair, and I’m hooked. All of the romanticizing about working the wood from the tree with minimal power tools aside, there really is something to the beauty of shaving sopping wet wood on the shavehorse with a drawknife. In fact, I didn’t realize how much I missed it already. Luckily my hands didn’t forget the work, and they went right back to the skills I learned at chaircamp without missing a beat.
The legs are the only thing a little out of the ordinary. I decided to go with tapered octagons. The big-on-bottom small-on-top shape is different for a leg, but I like the look. The octagonal shape falls more in line with the right-angle, straight and square nature of the thing.
To make a tapered octagon is really pretty simple. Decide how much taper you want, then taper the leg. Lay out the octagon on both ends of the leg, connect the lines from top to bottom, and cut to the lines. Sounds simple, right? The devil is in the details. How do you taper four sides of a leg symmetrically? What’s the best way to cut to the lines? Where the heck did I set my beer?
What I did was lay out the octagons first. Find the center with diagonal lines, set a compass to reach from a corner to the center, then make a mark on each side. do this for each corner and you have an octagon.
First you taper all four sides. There is a very slick trick to this on the jointer that I can’t explain here, but you can watch it here. Glen Huey is the man.
After you taper all four sides, you connect the lines on both ends, then cut to the lines. I started wasting material with a jack plane, but that took too long. I set up the jointer fence to cut at the right angle and cut mostly to the lines, then finished up with a jointer plane.
I can’t believe I didn’t take any pics of the finished octagons. You can see them on the horse. A little labor-intensive, but the effect is worth it.
The rest of the horse was just milling, cutting to size, and assembling. I used The Country Workshop’s plans, found here. They are a little vague on some things, but some inferences and intuition are all you need to complete it.
It took me two Saturdays and a week after work to finish it, mostly because I had to mill and glue up stock for thickness. I really only had enough 8/4 for the bench, legs, and head.